Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
2017 GPHG Calendar Category Finalist
Slender, sleek and stealthy in its grainy black ceramic case, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar by Audemars Piguet fuses centuries of watchmaking tradition with cutting edge materials and classic styling to dramatic effect.
Having lost out to MB&F when it contested this same category in 2016, Audemars Piguet have unfinished business here, and using the same technicals this time around, have responded with a more contemporary theme to represent this grand old complication, and it is striking indeed.
A dark grey dial with the signature Grande Tapisserie pattern in the muted sheen of hand finished black ceramic gives the 2017 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar a brooding and sophisticated presence. Its full spectrum of primary calendar functions include day, date, month, year, leap year and moon phase across four subdials, as well as a week number pointer with peripheral reference.
A sapphire caseback reveals the Calibre 5134 self winding movement, and its bearing-guided gold oscillating weight. The finishing here and throughout is exceptional, and what one would expect from the brand's complications watchmakers. But can it hope to banish the disappointment of a year ago?
It's a modern interpretation of a classic formula and will surely be a contender, however it is not alone. Greubel Forsey and A. Lange & Söhne are formidable opposition, with newcomer Krayon throwing a distracting curveball into the mix.
The Watch Press prediction
A win here would certainly not be a shock, as I think it's a very cool piece personally, but will its contemporary looks have unanimous appeal to a jury panel? I don't know, and because of that doubt I am going to say no.
The pertinents
- REFERENCE: 26579CE.OO.1225CE.01
- CASE: Black ceramic
- BRACELET/STRAP: Black ceramic
- BUCKLE: Folding titanium clasp
- MOVEMENT: Self-winding mechanical. Power reserve: 40 h, 19'800 vph
- FUNCTIONS: Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
- SIZE: ø 41 mm
- THICKNESS: 9.5 mm
- WATERPROOFNESS: 20 m
- PRICE EXCL.VAT: 85'000 CHF
